London is unquestionably a global arts hub; from its proud, long-standing West End theatre district to its museums which, despite being among the most famous and best-resourced in the world, are almost always free, London is a must-do for an arts-focused traveller.
However, London’s arts scene is much more than museums and musicals. Alternative and modern artists from all around the world present much of their best work in London, and one of the most obvious and accessible example of this is in London’s street art. What was once a quiet form of rebellion or a way to leave ones mark on the world is now a booming, lucrative industry in London, complete with galleries, commissioned works, grand murals by visiting artists from dozens of countries, and commercial tours of popular street art districts.
Street mural by Jimmy C, an Adelaide-based Australian artist
Street art, if I’m honest, is a pretty unfamiliar concept to me. I’d heard of Banksy, and vaguely admired bits of graffiti and public art around my city and when I’d travelled in the past, but that was about it.
Luckily, I had Helen Huang as my travelling companion in London. Helen is a founding member of the Toronto-based STEPS (Sustainable Thinking and Expression on Public Space) Initiative, which aims to use public art to connect communities to public spaces. The initiative has been active since 2009, and has since engaged hundreds of artists, young people and community members to create pieces such as the world’s tallest mural, created in Toronto in 2013. So, when it comes to pals to take along on a street art tour, you can’t do much better.
The tour was, to get a little English about it, jolly good fun. London’s street art is diverse, ranging from the stereotypical colourful, cartoon-style murals to tiny sculptures and realist, political portraits, and it was incredible to see such a wide range of examples in just a few hours. The fact that the guides used by Alternative London are artists themselves adds not only a sense of authenticity to the experience, but also a massive bank of knowledge and passion that no off-the-street tour guide could match. But one of the biggest things that struck Helen and I was the international contingent which, at least judging by the sample shown to us by our guide, French street artist Lily Mixe, almost outnumbers the local contributions in the popular canvas of the financial district and Brick Lane.
Lily Mixe, our lovely guide for the day
“I think [London] is a great canvas for international work. it’s a world city.” said Helen.
But this in turn poses an interesting problem – the areas of a city that are most popular with artists are almost always the cheapest. These areas flood with artists, who, through all the wonderful powers of art, transform the space; what was once a dingy alleyway becomes a colourful walkway full of inspiring murals, abandoned shops become trendy artisan cafés, and galleries and start-ups like the Alternative London street tours pop up, endearing the once-neglected area to tourists and investors alike. But, with investors come increased cost of living, and eventually, the artists and the other low-income inhabitants of these areas are pushed out of their homes and often, further away from the city centre.
As a graduate from Urban Planning and an ally of public art in her own city, Helen finds this pattern particularly concerning.
“Brick Lane, Shoreditch… super-cool areas, with affordable rent, initially. And then you have this bank of artists moving in because it’s affordable. It becomes a creative place, and then yuppies and investors and developments see the property value go up, the increase in rent… basically pushing the marginalised people who can’t afford the rent out.” she said.
“There’s no intention of the artist to create harm that way, but it’s a result and eventually artists become part of the process, because they don’t have enough money for studio space or living space either.”
Gentrification is a tricky process to fight, too. Even being aware of the harm they create, artists and creatives have difficulty escaping the cycle.
As a tourist, especially, the temptation to go to the trendy areas and spend your money on trinkets, treats and tours that will eventually push the land values upwards is undeniable.
“It’s a nagging concern in the back of my head. And as a tourist, I’m contributing by that by saying ‘Oh, let’s go see the cool areas!’, and it perpetuates the cycle.” said Helen.